#Hugin 2015 how to#
#Hugin 2015 install#
#Hugin 2015 zip file#
#Hugin 2015 manual#

Above the panorama, you can select which images you wish to display. Click Fit and it may fit the panorama into the window, or you may need to move the sliders (very slowly). To get the image to the center, click Center and then click the center of the images. The Panorama Preview icon will generate a panorama based on the control points. You want a maximum distance of a few pixels, but if you're unlucky the distance may be in the hundreds. Hugin will try to find the best positions for the images. Do the same for lens parameters.īack at the Photos tab, select 'Positions (incremental, starting from anchor)' under Optimize and click 'Calculate'. Go to the Optimize tab, and disable rotation and lens parameter optimization, so only Pitch and Yaw are optimized: Right click on Roll, and select 'Unselect all', so the roll entries are not underlined. Select Custom Parameters under Optimize, which will add the Optimizer tab. Next, optimize the control points to fit the images together. Main screen of the Hugin panorama program

#Hugin 2015 zip file#

Autopano-SIFT-C is said to be good, but I didn't get good results at all with it it is in a zip file here.

#Hugin 2015 install#

You can install other control point finders if you want. It will take several minutes to generate control points. To generate control points, under 'Feature Matching' select 'Hugin's CPFind' and click 'Create control points'. The control points are what tie the images together, so high quality control points are critical. The next step is to generate the control points, which indicate features that match between pairs of images. Enter 'Normal (rectilinear)' for the lens type and 1 for HFOV in the dialog. To start a stitch with Hugin, load the images by dragging-and-dropping them into the Photos window. The software can be downloaded from the Hugin website. While Hugin is easy to use for simple panoramas, it's pretty confusing for more complex projects, which is why I've written this. If ICE doesn't work for you, the open-source Hugin panorama photo stitcher is much more flexible and provides many more options. If ICE works, it's super-easy, but it doesn't have any flexibility if you run into problems (as I did). You simply import the photos, click Stitch, and save the result. The easiest way to stitch together photos is with Microsoft's Image Composite Editor (ICE). The set of images used to generate the die photo. In the process I learned the importance of overlap, and Hugin worked much better when I tried again with a denser set of images. As a result, this article describes a fairly difficult stitch. Some of them overlap substantially, and some.

This will make it much easier to figure out which photos are overlapping neighbors when stitching them together.įor this article, I used the set of images below. Give the images structured names according to their grid position: 11.png, 12.png, 21.png. The quality of the input photos is also important - make sure the die is level so you can get sharp focus across the whole image.

#Hugin 2015 manual#

Skimping on the overlap may result in hours of manual work later. Use more overlap than you think necessary - at least 30% is good.

#Hugin 2015 how to#

The key to success is pictures with substantial overlap, so the software can figure out how to combine them. It's much easier if the microscope has an X-Y stage to precisely move the die for each picture. (The box on the right of the microscope is the light.) A metallurgical microscope shines the light from above so you can view opaque objects such as chips. I used an AmScope metallurgical microscope like the one below. The next step is to take photos of the die through a microscope. The MC6820 chip with the metal lid popped off to reveal the silicon die.